Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Day 20 - Home Sweet Home

The final couple days were a slow roll from Iowa to Ohio with a stop in Indiana to see some customers.  We made a quick stop to find some nice ears of corn to take to a meeting in Houston but the last miles were uneventful, so I'll just speed to a short recap.

So what's the recap.  Here is our route.






States visited    9
Days out           20
Miles traveled  4,122
Gallons of gas  275.9
Miles / gallon   15.0 (best = 16.8 mpg on level interstate, worse = 11.6 on Beartooth Hwy)
Total $ on gas   $1037.45
Avg $ / gal        $3.77
Cost / mile        $0.25

The bugs have been washed off the Roadtrek and she (or is it a he?) is ready for the next trip.  We don't have another trip planned for this fall, but maybe we will do a quick color tour in the next weekend or two.  It's ready to go, so who knows what we might do.  We do have a trip planned for Branson, MO, but that's not until next spring.

Happy 'treking!

Tuesday, September 11, 2012

DAY 18 - VISITING AN OLD FRIEND

Today, we were going to visit a childhood friend.  Ron lived across the road when we were kids. Ron, my brother, and I were "the three musketeers". We shared PB&J sandwiches in tree houses and got into all sorts of mischief, but that was many years ago so let's just think positive thoughts here.

Ron moved to Texas, then to western Iowa.  He has a beautiful log home that overlooks the rolling area around Council Bluffs, Iowa.


Ron and Viola also have a Winnebago motor home that makes our Roadtrek look pitifully tiny. 

These really are beautiful motor homes. Extend the slides and there is so much room.  Maybe some day we will want something larger, but for now our wants and needs are to be on the move and see the country.  Our Roadtrek can be parked in any parking space and can go two or three times as far on a gallon of gas.
After a great lunch and a nice visit, it was time to move on. Thanks Ron and Viola for the great visit.  We thoroughly enjoyed the fresh onions, cucumbers and tomatoes from your garden on our homeward trek!

Our next stop was a Corp of Engineers campround near Ankeny, Iowa.
We decided to stay on two lane highway to Ankeny so we drove Hwy 44 through the Iowa country-side.  We were rewarded with a few great views like this one.  Certainly, it is much different than the mountains we were driving in just a couple days ago but rolling corn and soybean fields have beauty too.
 If you are ever passing through Iowa and need a great place to camp for the night, I would suggest one of the Corps of Engineers campgrounds just north of I-80.  The campgrounds and facilities are very nice, and if you have a Passport America card, the cost is the same as national park campgounds.




Monday, September 10, 2012

Day 17 - A CLOSER LOOK AT THE TETONS

Today, is moving day. We will head north on the Teton Park Road which is the closest road to the Teton Mountain Range - about five miles closer than Hwy 191 that we traveled on yesterday as we drove south, then we will begin our cross country trek eastbound.
Grand Teton NP entree point early in the morning.
Teton Glacier is in the valley above the rear of the Roadtrek.
The Cathedral Group at the north end of the Teton Range.
This was our turning point to head eastbound and toward home.  It was a bittersweet moment but the trip wasn't over yet.  We were 1,600 miles from home and still had a few enjoyable things to see.

This doe watched us cruise by.

Pronghorns are everywhere.
How about this for a home site?


Not a lot of traffic but nice views.
Pony Express Station – Gothenburg, Nebraska

This was a nice break.  A volunteer was there to answer questions.  This was station #64 of 165 on the 2,000 mile route from St. Louis, Missouri to Sacramento, California.  Riders changed horses every 10 - 15 miles and rode around 75 miles before a fresh rider took over.  Riders made $100 per month, which was pretty high pay in the 1860's. In total there were 183 young men who were riders for the Pony Express during this period of just over 18 months.
The Great Platte River Road Archway Monument is a museum of and monument near Kearney, Nebraska.  It is a monument and museum to show the Platte River Valley's role in the westward expansion.  It was getting late in the afternoon and we wanted to get to Grand Island for the evening so we didn't stop. Maybe next time...


Once we started east from Grand Teton NP, we kept a pretty steady pace eastbound and ended up at the KOA Campground in Grand Island, Nebraska. A big 750 mile day.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Day 15 - HEADING TO TETON NP

It was time to say goodbye to Yellowstone.  We had seen so much, but it's obvious that a few days here is only enough to scratch the surface of things to do and see.  This is the kind of place that deserves more than one visit, so I suspect we will be back at some time. 

But...we had one more thing to check off our list.  As we were leaving Grant Campground, we saw a big bull elk in the trees.  Elk were in rut so they were bugling and pretty active chasing the cows.  This big guy had a few cows around but he was busy rubbing the velvet off his antlers. It was really special to get to watch him beat the tar out of this tree.





Bull Elk from J Diepenbruck on Vimeo.


We headed on south and soon entered Grand Teton National Park.  Grand Teton and Yellowstone are attached...drive out of one and into the other.  Grand Teton National Park is named for Grand Teton, the tallest mountain in the Teton Range. The naming of the mountains is attributed to early 19th-century French speaking trappers—"les trois tetons" (the three teats) was later anglicized and shortened to Tetons. 


There are a number of points of interest along the highway as we head south toward Jackson, WY. This is Cunningham Cabin with a sod roof. It's dry now but is full green in the spring and during times of higher rainfall. John Cunningham homesteaded this land and built the cabin in the 1880's. He was a successful cattle rancher until drought ruined pasture and he abandoned the ranch. 
Carolyn was taking a walk near the Cunningham Cabin but decided to cut her walk short when I reminded her to be on the lookout for rattlesnakes!
The view from Visitor Center was special.
A late lunch.  The bison burger was tasty.

It was time to find a campground and set up for the night.  We decided on Gros Verde Campgound which is one of the national park campgrounds.  Like Mammoth Campgound in Yellowstone, our site was level and had a fire ring, but there is no electrical, water, nor sewer hookup.  That's OK since our Roadtrek is self contained. 

We decided to take a late afternoon drive to Jackson, WY which [after the mountains] is the biggest attraction around the national park. 

Jackson Hole is the valley around Jackson, WY and is known as one of the premier skiing areas in the Rockies.  The ski slopes are straight ahead when driving into town on the main highway.  Our plans included a stop at Great Harvest Bread Company for a loaf of "home-made" bread, but there was a festival going on and the traffic was NUTS, so we just took a quick drive through town and headed back to our campground.
On our way back to our campsite, the side of the road was full of cars and people had their cameras going.  That could only mean some sort of critter was close by.  This moose wasn't as big as the two monsters we saw on our Big Horn drive but moose aren't something we see every day so we will take our share of pictures too.


A cow and twins were on the other side of the trees.

Soon, the family decided to head off for the night...

and the bull took one last pose for the cameras.
The day started with watching a big elk in the trees and ended with a family of moose.  In between, there were some spectacular views of the Tetons mixed with some fun stops and a homestead cabin with sod roof.  Give us a checkmark for another successful day.

Friday, September 7, 2012

DAY 14 - YELLOWSTONE (THIRD DAY)

Today is moving day.  The plan is to move south along the road that runs down the western side of the park.  It's about 50 miles to Old Faithful so we would take our time to enjoy the scenery, make stops at a couple highlighted spots and [of course] look for wildlife.  We are still looking for that big bull elk, maybe a wolf or Carolyn's least favorite...a bear. 

Bison roll in mud or dirt to remove insects but they are also marking their territory.  There is no doubt who is in charge of this big guys territory.

Old Faithful.  Yellowstone is home to a tremendous amount of wildlife, including bears, bison and elk, wolves and more, but it was designated America's first national park because of the numerous hot springs and geysers. Old Faithful is the grand daddy of them all and is the most visited attraction in the park.  Even though there were few families here the first week of September, the viewing benches at Old Faithful were full.
While waiting, a ranger gave us a preview and answered questions. The average interval between eruptions is about 90 minutes but varies about 10 or 15 minutes.  Eruptions last from 1 1/2 minutes to five minutes and spew 4,000 to 8,000 gallons of hot water.  Water temperature has been measured at 204 degrees.
There she blows!
There is no doubt when the eruption is about to start. There is an unmistakable gurgling and spitting, then Old Faithful spews it's steam and water.  The ranger estimated this eruption about average at 150 feet.
View from the new visitor center.  Old Faithful is straight ahead so can be viewed from the warmth.
It's time to head toward Grant Campground.  Grant is on the southern end of Yellowstone Lake and will be our home for our last night in the park.   We heard rumors of large numbers of elk in the area so we had hopes of finally seeing one or more of the big bulls.
Along the route to Grant, we crossed the Continental Divide that separates the watersheds that drain to the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.

 At 8,200 feet of elevation, it's chilly here today.  It was a good night to build a campfire and enjoy the warmth by cooking hot dogs and maybe melting some marshmallows.  This was a good night to test our sleeping bags, but we could always turn on the LP furnace in the Roadtrek if needed.
Even though our Roadtrek is not large, this Jucy RV takes compact to a new level. It was really pretty ingenious; lift the tailgate to reveal a tiny kitchen with drawers and a small LP stove.  The seats fold to make a bed area for two and "the Penthouse" (on top) will sleep two as well.  It was rented by young couple from Denmark who were touring the western United States.  They asked for a tour of our Roadtrek...they were impressed with all of our room and luxuries like refrigerator, microwave, and even a bathroom!
We ended another good day in Yellowstone.

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Day 13 - YELLOWSTONE, (second day)

We decided to do the upper loop today so we decided to register for another night at Mammoth.  Our neighbors who had worked at Yellowstone all summer gave us pointers of some must see places.  Waterfalls are the highlights of the upper loop.  Stops at the Upper Falls, Lower Falls and Artists Point will provide magnificent views of the falls of the Yellowstone River.  Following views of the falls and lots of hikes on the pathways, we would head to Norris Geyser.  Of course, we are always on the lookout for animals, too.



The road to Tower Falls has several pull-outs with views of the Yellowstone river.  The smoke comes from fires in Idaho and three small files in Yellowstone.
The 132-foot Tower Falls was our first stop.  These falls first came to the world’s attention in 1869 when an exploratory crew came upon them, naming them ‘Tower Falls’ because of all the sharp volcanic peaks on both sides of the drop.


The flow must be spectacular during the spring melt?
The path got a little narrow at times.

Downstream from Tower Falls

We were off to the "Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone", but I stopped along the way to take this picture of the new growth of pines that are replacing the trees that were burned in the 1988 fires. The new trees are about 6 feet tall. Growth is slow in this climate and altitude.


The "Grand View"

The walk to the falls didn't seem too steep but we would learn otherwise on the trip back to the parking lot.
 
"Upper Falls"

Brink of Lower Falls

Ranger talking to park visitors about wolves in Yellowstone.

We had spent the past few hours exploring the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.  The sights were great and we certainly got our exercise.  Some of the paths turned out to be pretty steep and we weren't used to the thin air at 7000 feet altitude, but we learned quickly to pace ourselves. 

After a bit of souvenir shopping at the Canyon gift shop, we bought a couple sandwiches to eat in the Roadtrek while working our way toward the Norris Geyser.


 The Norris Geyser Basin is the most concentrated area of geysers in Yellowstone.  These aren't the biggest nor most famous, but there is boiling water and steam spewing out all over the area.  You can hear the hissing and smell sulfur from almost anyplace on the hiking trails.   




The hiking trails
The museum is located in the center of the hiking trails - Porcelain Basin is to the north and Back Basin to the south.

"Porcelain Basin" 203 degrees F

The western side of Yellowstone has the worlds largest collection of geysers.  They are quite incredible to watch. After all, they are steam or boiling water being shewed from the earth.  Sometimes, they are just bubbling mud.  There are signs that warn everyone to stay on the boardwalk when walking through the area. 
Most of the geysers have temperatures close to 200 degrees F.

Here are a few pictures. 





Here is some video of the hot springs.  It's interesting to watch and listen to the earth burp, boil and hiss a bit. Turn your volume up and listen.



 Of course, Old Faithful is the "big dog" of the Yellowstone geysers, but these were pretty cool to watch.  As a word of caution, protect your camera lens if you plan to visit geysers.  We were told the acids and the sulfur will pit the glass.  Oh ya, the sulfur odor is pretty strong too.  For that reason, we were glad to be camping at Mammoth and not the Norris Campground.

It was time to make the 25 mile drive back to Mammoth Campground.  On the way, we talked to some people who had just come from the Mammoth area and learned there was a herd of elk just north of our campground.  We had not seen elk so we high-tailed it north to see if we could catch them.  Sure enough, only a few miles from our campground, there was a herd of a couple dozen elk.  Unfortunately, almost all were cows.  The only males were young and did not have big antlers that we associate with prize bull elk.



There was a male with larger antlers than this one but he was hiding in the bush and wouldn't come out. Notice the cow with the perked up ears.  The BIG bull was hiding somewhere over the hill and "bugling" his head off.  This was "rut" time and he was calling his girls.
As you can see by the elk pictures, it was getting dark and time to head home after another great day at Yellowstone.